A summer vacation in Jackson Hole isn’t complete without a rafting trip down the Snake River. Floating on the Snake River offers opportunities for relaxing expeditions and whitewater adventures! Consider matching a hot August day with the famous whitewater rapid, Big Kahuna, or pairing a cool September evening with sunset, light hors d’ouvres and cocktails! [...]
10. Stagecoach rides around historic downtown Jackson. 9. Zip down Snow King Mountain on the Alpine Slide! 8. Enjoy our charming downtown area that features a wonderful assortment of Jackson’s finest hotels, boutiques and cafés. 7. Try your hand at white water rafting, hot air ballooning, horse back riding, climbing the Grand [...]
Roads and facilities in Grand Teton National Park and on the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway are set to start opening next week for the summer season. The Teton Park Road will open to vehicle traffic on May 1. Motorists are advised to be alert for migrating wildlife throughout the park. The Jenny Lake [...]
Pam Chrisman grew up watching sage grouse, fox, whitetail deer and sand hill cranes. Her family owned several large ranches in southwest Wyoming near the Green River and wildlife roamed freely. Every afternoon she helped her dad bring in cattle and they’d see the same pair of coyotes. Her dad even named them. Moose would [...]
Cheyenne is Wyoming’s capitol city, and was named after an Indian tribe of the plains. The Wyoming State Capitol building resembles the nations capitol in Washington D.C. Built in 1887, its glistening gold leaf dome can be seen from miles around. Self guided tours can be taken weekdays from 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. There [...]
Everything you love about the West in every season… Jackson Hole, Wyoming offers a wonderful escape from the daily grind of schedules, commutes, and deadlines with its magnificent Teton Mountain Range and abundant wildlife! Here is a year-around playground with every type of outdoor activity imaginable plus bountiful lodging options. Jackson Hole has long been [...]
The world’s first and favorite national park, Yellowstone is a 3,472 square mile phenomenon. Ninety-six percent of the park is located in Wyoming. This most famous visitor destination was established as a national park in 1872. As you plan your trip through Yellowstone, whether it’s for one day, a week or longer, it’s important to [...]
CODY, Wyo. (AP) A survey finds that an overwhelming majority of tourists who travel to Cody also visit Yellowstone National Park and favor motel rooms instead of camping. The Cody visitors travel mostly by motor vehicle, tend to shop in Cody, stay an average of one to two nights and rate the Buffalo Bill Historical [...]
Cowboys. Horses. Guns. Booze. And tennis? When it comes to dude ranches, hosts are adopting John Wayne’s, “A man’s got to do what a man’s got to do,” and are offering options unheard of just a few years ago in order to attract guests. Dude ranches still have horses and wranglers, and an aura of [...]
Whitewater Rafting – Wikimedia
Floating on the Snake River offers opportunities for relaxing expeditions and whitewater adventures! Consider matching a hot August day with the famous whitewater rapid, Big Kahuna, or pairing a cool September evening with sunset, light hors d’ouvres and cocktails!
Guided float trip options include whitewater rafting in the Snake River Canyon, scenic floats in Grand Teton National Park, and scenic floats on the South Park section. Snake River scenery includes the majestic Teton Mountain Range, the limestone cliffs of the Snake River Canyon, and the impressive horizon of Grey’s National Forest. There is an amazing wealth of wildlife along the river. Bald eagles, moose, marmots, pelicans, beavers, and osprey are just a few of the species that frequent the valley.
Some options include riverside meals, combination scenic and whitewater floats, and overnight trips. There are also float trips within Grand Teton National Park, which are regulated by the park.
After the thrill of these rapids, rafters float over an underwater waterfall named Champagne where millions of bubbles move brightly to the surface. The Snake River will thrill and delight you.
If you are an angler, you have certainly heard of the legendary Jackson Hole water located in the heart of trout country. Fishing trips are available along most stretches of the River. Jackson Hole is home to unique sub-species of trout, known as the Snake River Fine-Spotted Cutthroat Trout. These wild and indigenous trout are renowned for their fondness of the dry fly.
Shuttle Boat on Jenny Lake – HikrChick, Flickr
10. Stagecoach rides around historic downtown Jackson.
9. Zip down Snow King Mountain on the Alpine Slide!
8. Enjoy our charming downtown area that features a wonderful assortment of Jackson’s finest hotels, boutiques and cafés.
7. Try your hand at white water rafting, hot air ballooning, horse back riding, climbing the Grand with an Exum Guide or fly-fishing on one of the five surrounding record trout rivers.
6. Grand Teton National Park is full of historic sites to see…the Chapel of the Transfiguration, drive to the top of Signal Mountain or venture across the Snake River on Menor’s Ferry.
5. Don’t miss Yellowstone National Park’s natural wonders…West Thumb Geyser Basin, Old Faithful, Upper and Lower Falls and stare in awe of the Grand Canyon!
4. Take a boat ride across Jenny Lake to access Hidden Falls or become one with nature on a hike to Taggart Lake, Bear Paw Lake or up Paint Brush Canyon.
3. Explore the cultural scene of Jackson which includes a new $35 million arts center; a unique national museum; a Broadway-ready theater; international juried film festival; world-renowned orchestral musicians; and 35 art galleries!
2. Wave to cowboys and cowgirls participating in Jackson’s largest horse-drawn parade during Old West Days, tap your foot in time with the music at the Fourth of July Music in the Hole concert, or take in the QuickDraw Art Sale and Auction where inspiration flows fast and furious as 30 artists create original works as spectators watch during the Fall Arts Festival.
And the number one reason why you should Jackson Hole, Wyoming in the summer time is…
The lasting memories you’ll create with your family and friends!
The Teton Park Road will open to vehicle traffic on May 1. Motorists are advised to be alert for migrating wildlife throughout the park.
The Jenny Lake Visitor Center is scheduled to open May 18. The Jenny Lake Ranger Station and Colter Bay Visitor Center will open on May 26.
Ranger-led activities begin on June 4.
The Gros Ventre (GROW’ vawnt) Campground is to open May 4, with Signal Mountain and Jenny Lake campgrounds opening May 11. Colter Bay Campground opens May 24.
The Headwaters Campground and RV Sites open June 1. And Lizard Creek opens June 8.
MOOSE, Wyo. (AP)
Shiras Moose
Pam Chrisman grew up watching sage grouse, fox, whitetail deer and sand hill cranes. Her family owned several large ranches in southwest Wyoming near the Green River and wildlife roamed freely.
Every afternoon she helped her dad bring in cattle and they’d see the same pair of coyotes. Her dad even named them. Moose would come up to her house on her Fish Creek Ranch and stand under lights if predators lingered around.
Her family owned the land for more than 100 years, and Chrisman didn’t want to see it divided and chunks sold to pay off debts. In December, she finalized an agreement that would protect her 1,500 acres forever.
Her land is most recent chunk in a larger effort to protect the Upper Green River Basin. The Conservation Fund, partnered with many other agencies, has pieced together about 30,000 acres in the basin.
It includes the “Path of the Pronghorn,” the longest land mammal migration route in the continental United States and winters more than 100,000 moose, elk, mule deer and pronghorn, said Luke Lynch, Wyoming state director for The Conservation Fund.
A new fishing access on the ranch will give anglers another roughly two miles on the Green River to fish for brown trout and native cutthroat trout.
“The beauty here is that you have ranching working in harmony with wildlife,” Lynch tells the Casper Star-Tribune (http://bit.ly/IAUFZW). “It’s a functioning landscape; you’ve got incredible diversity of wildlife still there and using the land as they have for thousands and thousands of years.”
As part of its Upper Green River Valley Initiative, the fund is working to protect and enhance more than 150,000 acres.
Chrisman’s property is in the middle of it all.
Each easement works a little differently. Agencies who contribute vary and so can terms of the agreements. One of Chrisman’s ranches, for example, includes a walk-in fishing area. Not all easements include public access.
The Wyoming Game and Fish Department became involved in her easement because of the unique abundance of wildlife and wetlands, said Kerry Olson, a lands resource biologist with the Game and Fish Department.
Local biologists saw the land’s value to game and nongame species, including a major elk migration route that runs through her Fish Creek Ranch. The Green River borders one ranch and Fish and South Piney creeks come together on her other ranch. The waterways offer spawning habitat for native cutthroat trout and non-native sport fish.
Game and Fish chooses its easements carefully, Olson said. But subdividing in an area with this much wildlife means loss of land to buildings and shuts off migration routes with fences.
Chrisman’s property had the advantage of not only myriad types of wildlife but it also connected other easements, said Bob Budd, executive director of the Wyoming Wildlife and Natural Resource Trust which also contributed to the project.
“If you can connect one piece of landscape to another for wildlife, view sheds and recreation, those are all positive,” he said.
The Game and Fish Department contributed $90,000 to buying the easement. The Wyoming Governor’s Big Game License Coalition donated another $25,000. The Natural Resources Conservation Service matched those grants.
The Game and Fish Department is also responsible for monitoring the property at least once a year forever. Officials will stay in touch with whoever owns the land and ensure it stays in relatively the same condition it is in now.
Even though groups purchase an easement, the rancher still owns the land. Chrisman can sell her land at any point, but the conditions assigned to the land, including how many buildings can be constructed and what type of development is allowed, will stay with the land forever.
For Chrisman, selling the rights to develop was worth it. The money from the easements paid off her debt and she can continue ranching knowing her land will stay that way.
“Down the line you never know who might get ahold of it and decide to subdivide it,” Chrisman said. “To sell it off would destroy your whole livelihood and your person, your spirit.”
Mike Kaul, managing partner of Two Rivers Emporium in Pinedale and an avid fisherman, said these easements spread anglers out along more river bank and increase interest in the sport.
He didn’t know about the access yet, it’s so new signs still need to go up. Keeping the land together and opening the river portion to the public guarantees the pristine environment fishermen want when they come to Wyoming.
Plus, some big fish swim through that section.
___
Information from: Casper (Wyo.) Star-Tribune, http://www.trib.com
By CHRISTINE PETERSON
Casper Star-Tribune
www.wyomingtravelrecreation.com
Buffalo Soldier Statue – Cheyenne
Cheyenne is Wyoming’s capitol city, and was named after an Indian tribe of the plains. The Wyoming State Capitol building resembles the nations capitol in Washington D.C. Built in 1887, its glistening gold leaf dome can be seen from miles around. Self guided tours can be taken weekdays from 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. There are spectacular Tiffany style stain glass ceilings in the house and Senate Chambers, painted murals & fine art throughout the building along with beautiful architecture and woodwork.
Here you will find an extensive carriage collection, western art, period clothing and various exhibits. The museum is open 7 days a week. Just across the street in Lions Park is the Cheyenne Botanic Gardens. Tour the 100% solar powered conservatory filled with herb gardens, a waterfall, exotic vines, and tropical trees.
Ninety percent of the labor provided for these gardens is seniors, handicapped or youth volunteers. On the grounds will find a community inspirational Peace Garden, rose, herb, and perennial gardens.
Cheyenne’s historic Depot has the distinct honor of being designated a National Landmark, significant for expressing the heritage of the United States. It is in the company of Pearl Harbor, the Alamo, the Ryman Grand Ole Opry House, and Lincoln Memorial, as well as Cheyenne’s Warren Air Force Base.
The hub of downtown Cheyenne is the staging area for the Cheyenne Street Railway Trolleys and the free horse-drawn carriage rides. There are many events and concerts held in the plaza. To get a great overview of the city take a narrated tour on the quaint Cheyenne Street Railway trolley.
If tracking trains is your thing you’ll find “Big Boy – Engine 4004” the world’s largest steam engine in Holiday Park. It was retired in 1956. ‘Ole Sadie Engine 1242 a Harriman Class, is the oldest steam engine in Wyoming. She resides in Lions Park.
Terry Bison Ranch, just south of Cheyenne is a 30,000 acre working bison ranch which offers western entertainment the way you would expect. Ride on this gas powered train for a photo safari. Home to 3,000 head of American Bison (buffalo), also many horses, longhorn steer, camels, llamas, ostriches, emu, chickens, turkeys, turkins (1/2 turkey – 1/2 chicken), peacocks, donkeys, goats, beefalo (1/2 buffalo – 1/2 steer) and many wild critters. Offering campfires, trophy trout fishing, wagon rides, bison drives, a saloon & restaurant, horseback rides. The Senators Steakhouse and a giftshop are located at the ranch. Cabins and campsites are available.
To the west, along Happy Jack Highway you’ll find Curt Gowdy State Park, named after the famous sportscaster who did his first broadcasts in Cheyenne. Vedauwoo Recreation Area, also to the west of Cheyenne features spectacular rock formations prime for rock climbing, hiking, horseback riding or picnicing.
The Cheyenne Area Convention & Visitors Bureau is happy to provide any information needed to make your visit pleasant. Call (800) 426-5009 or visit www.cheyenne.org
Elk Antler Arch, Jackson – Wikimedia
Everything you love about the West in every season…
Jackson Hole has long been referred to as the last of the “Old West” a place where Hollywood Western-style romance meets authentic Wyoming ranching culture. While you’re here, you must take the opportunity to enjoy a traditional form of transportation: horseback riding! Horseback riding is a popular pastime and fun for all levels of experience. From the seasoned cowboys to young children, horseback riding can be an amazing adventure in Jackson Hole.
Jackson’s western charm continues to draw visitors while becoming known as a cultural destination. Recognized for our long-time strength in traditional Landscape, Western and Wildlife arts, Jackson is evolving into a cosmopolitan cultural scene given a new $35 million arts center; a unique national museum; a Broadway-ready theater; an international juried film festival; world-renowned orchestral musicians; and now, cutting-edge contemporary art galleries!
And your summer vacation in Jackson Hole isn’t complete without a trip down the Snake River. Floating on the Snake River offers opportunities for relaxing expeditions and white water adventures. Consider matching a hot August day with the famous white water rapid, Big Kahuna, or pairing a cool September evening with sunset, light hors d’ouvres and cocktails!
If you are an angler, you have certainly heard of the legendary Jackson Hole water located in the heart of trout country. Fishing trips are available along most stretches of the Snake River. Jackson Hole is home to unique sub-species of trout, known as the Snake River Fine-Spotted Cutthroat Trout. These wild and indigenous trout are renowned for their fondness of the dry fly.
Winter in Jackson Hole offers a wide variety of available activities. Known for its three outstanding local ski areas, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Grand Targhee Resort and Snow King Resort, the valley also enables visitors to enjoy off-slope options such as snowmobiling, cross- country skiing, snowshoeing, National Elk Refuge sleigh rides, dog sledding, and wildlife safaris, just to name a few!
The Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce represents the hotels, attractions, and restaurants in Teton County, Wyoming. Teton County is home to Grand Teton National Park and most of Yellowstone National Park.
When planning to visit Jackson, start with the Chamber and we’ll get you headed in the right direction! www.jacksonholechamber.com
www.wyomingtravelrecreation.com
Yellowstone Upper Geyser Basin – Wikimedia
As you plan your trip through Yellowstone, whether it’s for one day, a week or longer, it’s important to know that although it is an “all season” park, park entrances carry restrictions depending on the season. During the summer months, all five entrances to the park are open to automobiles, hikers, bicycles, motorcycles and buses. During the winter months, only the north entrance is open to passenger vehicles. The other four entrances are open only to “over-the snow” vehicles.
Mammoth Country is accessible by the north entrance into Mammoth Hot Springs. This hydrothermal area is home to many hot springs and geysers, which for over 8,000 years have created magnificent limestone terraces. You will be witness to this historic process as you watch the hydrothermal activity. Thousands of gallons of water flow from the side of the mountain, depositing up to two tons of limestone resculpting these terraces daily. Norris Geyser Basin, 21 miles south along the Firehole River, is home to “Steamboat,” the world’s tallest geyser. Steamboat reaches up 400 feet and eruptions can last up to 12 hours! Another popular site is Echinus Geyser, which erupts every 20 to 80 minutes.
Roosevelt Country is accessible from the northeast entrance. This area is a photographic delight of rolling hills covered with sagebrush, fir, pine and aspen and bordered by numerous sparkling streams. Among this “country’s” many attractions is the 132 foot Tower Falls, named for its volcanic pinnacle formations which surround the area. Yellowstone’s famous Petrified Forests, or “forests of stone,” are located at Specimen Ridge. Buried in volcanic ash over the ages, these subtropical plants and cold climate trees still stand where they originally grew. The famous Petrified Tree is located approximately one mile west of Roosevelt Lodge. While visiting this area, be sure to traverse down the historical Bannock Trail, an old American Indian route that winds through this breathtaking “country.”
Canyon Country is more commonly known as “The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone” and is accessible from the south through Roosevelt Country, and north from the east entrance. This is the home of the famous 308 foot Lower Falls, which is almost twice as high as Niagra Falls. Other attractions are: Artists Point, with a sheer 700 foot drop; Upper Falls, where the Yellowstone River drops 109 feet; and Inspirational Point, which offers a dazzling view of the Yellowstone River winding through the canyon floor below. On the canyon floor, known as Hayden Valley, it is commonplace to see buffalo, elk and deer in the meadows and swan, blue heron and Canadian geese in the marshes. You can also spot moose roaming through the valley’s rivers and woods.
Geyser Country is easily the most popular “country” in Yellowstone and is accessible from the south entrance or the west from Lake Country. The home of Old Faithful, this country also features Grand Prismatic Spring, Yellowstone’s largest hot spring. Grand Prismatic Spring is 370 feet in diameter. You can view this wondrous site and the Excelsior Geyser, once the most powerful in the park by following the Midway Geyser Basin Boardwalk. Other famous and spectacular attractions in the area are: Morning Glory Pool, Gem Pool, Emerald Pool, and the Lone Star, Giantess, Plume, Beehive, Riverside and Grotto geysers.
Lake Country is accessible from the south and east entrances. This spectacular “country” houses America’s largest high-mountain lake, Yellowstone Lake, with an altitude of 7,733 feet. Twenty miles long and 14 miles wide, this lake’s shoreline is in excess of 100 miles and boasts abundant cutthroat trout – the only game fish in the lake. In the West Thumb Area of Lake Country you will find Isa Lake, a most unusual natural wonder. The waters from this lake flow into both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Additional attractions in this beautiful country are the Dragon’s Mouth Geyser, Mud Volcano, and numerous colorful hot springs, runoff channels, mud pots and geysers in the West Thumb Geyser Basin.
To plan your Yellowstone National Park vacation, information about tours, entrance fees, regulations, safety tips, maps, etc., may be obtained by contacting the Yellowstone National Park Service at (307) 344-7381.
Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Wikimedia
CODY, Wyo. (AP)
The Cody visitors travel mostly by motor vehicle, tend to shop in Cody, stay an average of one to two nights and rate the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center and Cody Nite Rodeo as the best local attractions besides Yellowstone.
Park County Travel Council marketing director Claudia Wade tells the Cody Enterprise that the survey indicates people are using Cody for more than just a gas stop and a meal break on their way to Yellowstone.
The survey was conducted among people who had made online inquiries about possibly traveling to Cody.
Double Diamond Dude Ranch, Grand Teton National Park - Wikimedia
Cowboys. Horses. Guns. Booze. And tennis?
Dude ranches still have horses and wranglers, and an aura of the Old West. But today, many also offer extras like conference centers, spas, zip lines, paintball, ATV rides, naturalists, kids’ clubs and rock walls.
“Fifteen years ago you probably wouldn’t have found a swimming pool at a dude ranch, or very seldom. Now they all have swimming pools,” said Colleen Hodson, executive director of the Dude Ranchers’ Association, based in Cody, Wyoming. “At least half – probably more like three-quarters – are adding new activities and amenities every year.”
Dude ranches date back to the late 1800s, according to the association, which was established in 1926 at a meeting that included ranchers, railroad officials and National Park representatives. Today, the association represents about 100 ranches west of the Mississippi in the United States and Canada. There are also unaffiliated ranches, as well as some in the East.
“If they have to go move cows from the north pasture to the south pasture then that’s what you’ll do” at a working dude ranch, Hodson said. “If a portion of the fence fell down … then you’ll go fix fence.”
Although some working guest ranches still exist, most people no longer have the time nor inclination to rough it for days on end.
“They might want to ride on Monday and Tuesday and then on Wednesday take a day off and get a massage,” Hodson said.
At a recent stay at the Rancho de los Caballeros in Wickenburg, Arizona, with my husband and daughter, we walked, trotted and cantered our horses for four hours through the mesquite and saguaro to get to and from our cookout lunch in the shadow of Vulture Peak. The next day, I found that my derriere rebelled at the idea of getting back in the saddle.
While many other guests golfed on the resort’s par 72 golf course or relaxed in the spa, we filled out our stay in the heated pool, taking lessons from the resident tennis pro, hiking and learning to shoot trap – aiming our shotguns at flying clay targets.
Prices at dude ranches, and the amenities included, vary widely. At Rancho de los Caballeros, for instance, riding is extra, but meals are included. However, men must wear a jacket or Western-style vest to dinner and children are asked not to wear T-shirts or shorts to the main dining room.
A dog-friendly guest ranch in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park last summer was far more laid-back, even though a wedding was held while we were there. It had great horseback riding and we took advantage of the on-site racquetball courts, but the food was poor and our cabin infested with mice.
Peak season for dude ranches depends on the location. Ranches in Montana, Colorado and Wyoming often close for the winter, though they might open again for Thanksgiving and Christmas, offering sleigh rides and winter horseback riding. But ranches in Arizona and New Mexico frequently close for the summer because of the heat, or at least restrict their riding to early morning and sunset. High season at Rancho de los Caballeros is Feb. 14-April 14, and it closes mid-May.
While many dude ranches are adapting to the times, some have closed, either bought for development or sold to private corporations. Others have struggled as children move away from the family business.
As they look for a niche that extends beyond campfires and cowboy boots, today’s dude ranches offer murder mystery weekends, as well as programs catering to artists, photographers, bird watchers, wine aficionados, cooks, girls’ getaways, romance packages, singles, and gays and lesbians, among other interests.
“The tradition is there,” Hodson assured. “Sometimes it can be a difficult jump for them to make these changes but we’re doing it; maybe slower than some industries, but we are in the hospitality business, so we have to supply what the customer wants.”
As for all the transformations in a way of life steeped in history, perhaps it’s best to follow John Wayne’s advice: “Never say sorry. It’s a sign of weakness.”
By KAREN SCHWARTZ
For The Associated Press
Yellowstone in Winter, Wikimedia
By MATT VOLZ
Associated Press
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK, Wyo. (AP) _ I took a deep breath, positioned my skis and shot down the hillside, whizzing through a forest of trees covered with thick, feathered layers of ice.
I focused all my energy on not crashing into one, but my left ski kept slipping off the trail. Knees quivering and blood rushing in my ears, I willed it back and leaned into the curve to find my wife waiting on the trail ahead.
Somehow I stopped without crashing into her. We just stood there, our labored breathing the only sound in the frozen forest.
After a moment, we continued toward our destination, guided by the smoke signals rising from the pools and geysers in the distance.
My wife Beagan and I are new to cross-country skiing. After moving to the Rocky Mountains about two years ago, we figured it would be a good way to experience the backcountry in winter and stave off cabin fever. So we decided to learn in the wildest place we knew: Yellowstone National Park.
Relatively few people venture into the park at this time, just 17,262 overnight visitors last winter compared to the nearly 1.2 million overnight stays between June and September 2010.
The wildlife reemerges with the people gone, and wolves, foxes, swans, geese, eagles, bison and elk are more frequently seen at this time of year.
It’s also a prime time for cross-country skiing. Yellowstone in winter has plenty of trails for novices like us and experts alike. No matter the skill level, a ski trip in Yellowstone leaves you with a sense of the park’s beauty that is completely different from the busy summer months.
Beagan and I aimed to insert ourselves into this scene through what we pictured would be an unobtrusive means of transportation. For $40 each, we got a two-hour lesson and were outfitted with skis, boots and poles for 24 hours.
We spent the first part of that lesson in the Old Faithful parking lot. A groomed trail about a third of a mile in diameter had been cut there, and we practiced kicking and gliding. I was soon sweating through my layers even though the temperature was stuck at minus five degrees.
We moved on to a series of progressively steeper hills to practice stopping and turning. The last one was our final exam. It was the steepest and involved making a left turn at a high rate of speed to avoid plunging into an icy stream.
Halfway down, my hips lurched, my knees knocked and my arms pinwheeled. I collapsed into a pretzel of limbs, poles and skis. My wife swished past as I picked myself up. I watched as she made the turn effortlessly. We were as ready as we were going to be.
We planned our first outing in our room back at the lodge. The Old Faithful Snow Lodge and the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel near the northern entrance are the only accommodations inside the park during the winter season from mid-December until the first weekend of March.
Once you get to Old Faithful in winter, you’re pretty much stuck there unless you pony up another $62 to take the three-hour snowcoach back to West Yellowstone. The rooms at Old Faithful are $206 a night, there’s no television and reservations are a must at the one restaurant.
But the adventure begins just outside the door with the iconic geyser as the main attraction. I watched alone as Old Faithful hissed, gurgled and finally spewed in the twilight. Mother Nature was putting on a show and the only other attendee was a disinterested fox hopping on and off benches in search of some forgotten scraps.
Most wintertime visitors choose to tour the park by snowcoach or snowmobile. But there’s really no better way to become immersed in the park than with a pair of skis. There are the easy outings, such as the trails around the Upper Geyser Basin just outside of the lodge. Then there are the tougher ones, including arduous trails to the Continental Divide.
For those who don’t want to waste any more time than necessary, and have an extra $16.50, a shuttle is available to take skiers to more distant trailheads.
After the ski lesson and an afternoon of testing our new skills and fighting to stay upright on the easiest paths among the geysers, we woke up the next morning to sore muscles we never knew existed. Regardless, we decided to leave the training wheels behind and take a nine-mile out-and-back trek into the wilderness.
The first couple of miles to the Lone Star Geyser is a series of undulating hills in the forest. Beagan scooted up those hills using the herringbone technique we’d learned the day before, then glided back downhill with seemingly little effort. I fell farther and farther behind as I waddled the ups and resisted the urge to close my eyes on the downs.
Upon reaching the Kepler Cascades, the path becomes a level, groomed trail that follows the Firehole River. It is easy enough for a beginner, but provides a taste of the wild that lay just beyond the lodges.
Beagan quickly moved ahead and I reveled in the ease of following the river in the sunshine, alone with my thoughts on a crisp day.
When we reached our destination, the forest opened into a wide valley and the Lone Star geyser stood like a giant dirt dauber’s nest. Like most of our excursions from the lodge, not another person was around.
We congratulated ourselves and had a celebratory snack of salami and granola just 20 yards from the smoking geyser. We then headed back before the already sinking sun slipped too far below the horizon.
___
If You Go…
YELLOWSTONE IN WINTER: Yellowstone National Park’s winter season begins in mid-December and lasts until the beginning of March; http://www.nps.gov/yell . Winter package deals from concessionaire Xanterra: http://www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com.
SKIING: Rentals, $15 half-day, $24 full day. Lesson and 24-hour rental, $40. Snowshoes, $12 a half-day, $20 full day.
GETTING THERE: The only year-round access for private cars to Yellowstone is through the park’s north entrance at Gardiner, Mont., to Mammoth Hot Springs. The rest of the roadways are closed in winter. Visitors to Old Faithful can take a snowcoach for $62 from West Yellowstone or the south entrance. Within the park, snow coach and snowmobile tours are available.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Old Faithful Snow Lodge Inn nightly rates: rooms, $206; cabins, $96 or $149. Mammoth Springs Hotel: room with shared bath, $87; room with private bath, $120.
FOOD: At Old Faithful, Obsidian Dining Room is the only restaurant open (reservations recommended), while the Geyser Grill offers more fast-food fare. Mammoth Hot Springs’ Mammoth Hotel Dining Room is open in winter.
